60" REALUMINIZATION PROCEDURE
8/27/97 (from notes of 02/95) -- NC
ITEMS NEEDED:
Cart (in warehouse)
Primary Box
Secondary Box
Hoists and buckets (instruction manual)
Shackles, slings and carabiniers.
One pallet jack to move the box around (Get one from MMT)
Two Block & Tackles
Crow's foot wrench
PROCEDURE:
- Remove secondary, put in box. Use two block and tackles (one
from support, one we bought in 1999)
to hold the mirror up while it is being unscrewed, as the
assembly weighs around 50 pounds. The three innermost bolts, with hex
heads are the ones to unscrew. The earthquake stops must be removed.
The mirror is detached from the assembly via the three allen head screws,
once these are out, the mirror may be wedged away from the assembly
(the tripod that is RTV'd to the glass stays with the glass). Keep
track of the belvel washers.
- Remove stovepipe and corrector
- Remove counterweight on top ring, replace with restraining rod clamp.
- Install restraining rods (kept on upper level). First do Dec rod,
the shorter rod, with
telescope at horizontal position, tweak Dec motion until ball at end of
rod seats in the clamp. The other end is bolted to a square shaped bracket
on the polar axle near the north pier. Use a large open end wrench and
a large screw driver which holds the nut in place to tighten bolt.
Bring scope to zenith and install RA rod, one end goes on main
counterweight arm, the other on the eyeloop
on the north pier, about 4 feet off the floor. This rod should be expanded
as much as possible, because when the telescope is unbalanced in RA,
the tendency will be to compress the rod.
- Loosen worms on both axes, watch for telescope motion.
- Remove earthquake stops
- Remove all mirror covers so that the struts will clear the covers when
the cell is lowered. Mark the covers, as they are unique (make sure
the numbers on the doors are legible). It may be possible to leave the
actuators in place.
- Remove instruments and back plates of cell
- Detach finder, tie to telescope at the top, remove electronic boxes.
- Remove radial counterweights, by loosening the nuts at the
bottom. Rods may also be removed now by removing bolt that holds
them in the actuator joints.
- Hook up chain hoists and cart. A shackle is needed on the eastern
corner of the cart, to make the chain reach the cart.
- Raise cart to the cell, make tight.
- Unbolt cell, tape shims to struts so we don't lose them
- lower cart to about 3 feet off the floor.
- Remove radial hard points.
- Remove radial actuators. There is a special wrench for this task,
called a crows-foot. Remove the screw that pins the rotation restraints.
This is done from above the mirror, using a ball driver.
- Undo Lou's spring restraints underneath the cell.
- Use 3 sets of two 44" straps tied together to remove the mirror.
Each set should be snaked under the mirror (clocked at 120 degree
intervals). Strings were left under the mirror to help start this
procedure. The mirror may be raised on its jacking points to
help position the straps. The straps should all be attached at
the center to the chain hoist.
- Place one long yellow strap around SE upper truss, and another
at NW truss, connect with looped pink straps, and attach one of
the hoists at the juncture, which is now in the center of the
telescope.
- Lift mirror from cell.
- Remove cart and cell.
- Move box underneath the mirror. Leave the straps in the box.
- Seal box and ship with secondary.
REATTACHMENT:
Raise jack points so that mirror will sit on them instead of hard points.
Watch radial hard points as they might be clipped off when reinstalling
the mirror.
Use straps as above to lower mirror into cell. Make sure straps are
at 120 degree intervals before raising mirror up.
Mirror must be realigned in same orientation, such that the rotational
restraints can be hooked up. Engage axial actuators while mirror is
on jacking points. When this is done, lower jacking points and engage
the rotational constraints.
Set centering after mirror is fully in and axial actuators are
engaged. Use gap gauge to do this with
respect to center hub. Wooden wedges may be used at edge of mirror, on
the pucks.
Occasionally have to bend struts to get them to mate to the cell bolt
holes.
Replacing radial actuators is a pain. Must remove at least one bolt on
the bracket attached to the cell to help screw in the ball-joint pins.
It also helps to remove the weights from the rods before attaching the
rods.
The spring retention system is tricky. The spring/bolt assembly must be
totally taken apart to reinstall. First, screw bolt into puck which is
attached to mirror, the short thread side goes in - a nut is threaded here
to stop the bolt. Then place the bracket next to the cell (note that one
bracket is bigger than the others since the holes are different sized).
A large washer comes next, followed by the spring, followed by a small
washer, followed by the nut. The idea is for each spring unit to have
40 pounds of force. The purpose of that is to pull the primary back down
on the hard points, the mirror having been floated by the axial counterweights.
The hard points themselves are spring loaded, so too much force is also
a bad idea.
See the memo by Lou Boyd
for explicit instructions.